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south africa

Finding Ubuntu in Cape Town, South Africa

From spontaneous drumming with a young shopkeeper at the popular V&A waterfront arts and crafts building to hearing the personal path of an apprentice Sangoma in a local township to singing Christmas carols with 5000 locals against the backdrop of Table Mountain, it was the most incredible trip of my life. I went to the Cape for the great white sharks, the penguins and the scenery, but came home with moments that I will never forget.

INSPIRING COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS IN KHAYELITSHA

I found Uthando South Africa on Trip Advisor and contacted James (the director) about their trips to Khayelitsha. I wanted to visit a township in a responsible, respectable and non-intrusive manner. After learning that Uthando is a non-profit and fair trade certified tourism organization and that you visit community development projects, I was sure that I had booked the right tour for me.

EKHAYA EKASI ART & EDUCATION CENTRE

Our first stop was to eKhaya eKasi Art & Education Centre.  We met Lulama, the managing director of the centre and were given a tour and history of the centre. We learned about the programs such as women’s skills development and had an opportunity to see some of the women create handmade crafts. I loved that the centre empowers women by teaching them arts and crafts so they may sell their products to provide for their families. At the end of our visit, we had the option to visit the on-site boutique where we were able to purchase the crafts that were made by the women and other artists in Khayelitsha. One of my favourite souvenirs and gifts for family and friends was the heart ornaments made of shweshwe fabric, a traditional South African fabric. It was an opportunity to buy local and make a direct contribution.

I was then able to personally give the donated items I brought from Canada. To be able to choose, purchase, pack, carry and pass them from my hands to Lulama’s was an incredible feeling. Visiting the centre with Uthando was a definite highlight of my trip to Cape Town. It was inspiring to see the great things that were happening at eKhaya eKasi.

shweshwe heart ornaments made by women at eKhaya eKasi Art & Education Centre
shweshwe heart ornaments made by women at eKhaya eKasi Art & Education Centre in Khayelitsha, South Africa

View from the rooftop of eKhaya eKasi centre - Khayelitsha, South Africa

The view from the rooftop of eKhaya eKasi

ABALIMI BEZEKHAYA

We then continued on to Abalimi Bezekhaya’s organic garden centre in Khayelitsha where we met Mama Nokwanda. We learned how the women learn how to grow, harvest, provide for themselves and sell their produce to organizations outside of the Townships. Great progress had been made in the area of organic produce especially considering the dune-sand conditions on which they grow the vegetables.

MamaNokwanda Khayelitsha, South Africa
Mama Nokwanda, Khayelitsha, South Africa
Organic gardens in Khayelitsha, South Africa
organic gardens in Khayelitsha, South Africa

THOKAZANI BROTHERS

Our final visit was to the Thokazani Brothers. They are a choir that originally started with a group of men, but has expanded to include male and female youth from the township. They sing traditional songs. In addition, the adult leaders provide counselling and friendship to the youth and the building houses a creche (daycare). This group is sponsored by Uthando South Africa and was getting ready for a very important performance at Kirstenbosch Gardens for the 20th anniversary of Carols by Candlelight that was only 3 days away. We were treated to a beautiful performance by the youth of Khayelitsha. I had no idea what was being sung as it was in isiXhosa, but music has a way of expressing itself universally and I found it moving.

Thokazani Brothers, Khayelitsha, South Africa

Thokazani Brothers, Khayelitsha, South Africa
Khayelitsha, South AFrica
Khayelitsha, South Africa

My visit to each of the community development projects in Khayelitsha left me feeling inspired and moved. It was amazing to see the work being done by community members and leaders, a real grassroots endeavour. Each leader of the projects works hard to pass on skills and to uplift and empower their communities and they do so with such passion and commitment. Every tour booked with Uthando contributes to the projects visited.

GETTING IN THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT WITH NEW FRIENDS

A few days after my tour with Uthando, James invited me to attend Carols by Candlelight at Kirstenbosch Gardens with him and a few of his friends. The Thokazani group that I heard sing in Khayelitsha was the opening act. It was a thrill to not only watch them perform but to see the pride on their mother’s faces as they watched the group on stage.

The Christmas carol sing-a-long began around 8 pm in the shadow of Table Mountain, under starry skies and with the shimmering lights of Cape Town in the background. It was a different experience for me to not only be singing Christmas carols in the middle of summer (rather than in winter like at home in Toronto, Canada) but to do so with 5000 Capetonians. It was a great night and a perfect way to end my time in Cape Town.

Carols by Candlelight - Cape Town, South Africa
Carols by Candlelight, Cape Town, South Africa
Carols by Candlelight – Cape Town, South Africa

SPONTANEOUS DRUMMING AT THE V&A MARKET 

While wandering around the V&A Waterfront, I happened upon a djembe stall. I stopped to check out the djembes (African drum) after having lessons in Senegal the week prior. The young man who worked the shop insisted on hearing me play the djembe even though he knew I had only 2 lessons. He made me feel comfortable to play in such a public place and the next thing I knew, we were jamming. He showed me some beats on the drum and we played together for almost an hour, people even stopped to watch. Though we came from two completely different backgrounds, we connected in that experience and our mutual love of the African drum. He even suggested that I record him playing so I can practice at home.

THE SPIRIT OF UBUNTU

During my time at eKhaya eKasi, I connected with Lulama, the Managing Director or the Centre. For about 20-30 minutes on the rooftop, we discussed the challenges of running eKhaya eKasi, ways I might be able to assist and her journey to become a Sangoma (traditional healer). A moment I’ve remembered to this day (now 6 years later).

Participating in Cape Town Carols was another highlight and I enjoyed my time with the 4 people I met and spent that evening with. I was given a ticket to the event, welcomed by the group of friends, shared in their food and drink, sang and laughed with them and felt as if I had known them for a long time.

I had never encountered such openness and warmth as I did in Cape Town. I am grateful for those moments and the people I met. I know that without those experiences my time in Cape Town would only have been a series of proud accomplishments especially as a solo traveller rather than a journey of my heart. The moments inspired me to continue to live a life with an open heart. That time will forever stay with me.

I learned of the term Ubuntu, a beautiful word in the isiXhosa and isiZulu languages that in summary means “I am what I am because of who we all are.” Ubuntu speaks of the interconnectedness of all people. It is openness, caring, respect, love, community, humanity, compassion and sharing to name a few adjectives that describe the essence of the word.

These experiences in Cape Town taught me that travel is more than the seeing of the sights, it is the sharing of experiences and it is about the connections we make.

Local SIM cards for South Africa and Senegal and a resource for Europe and Prepaid Data Around the World

 

Why I Stay Connected When Travelling Internationally and How an Unlocked iPhone Helps Me Feel Safe Travelling Solo:

Staying connected while travelling solo internationally is essential for me. I do so to stay in touch with my husband and 2 boys via FaceTime and so they know my whereabouts in case anything should happen. I also like to stay “connected” as an extra measure of safety.

Reasons to Stay Connected

  • To use Google’s street view to scout the neighbourhood of the hostel/hotel I’m going to be staying at ahead of time. I can see what amenities are nearby and what the neighbourhood is like.
  • To open google maps and follow the “blue dot” to see if your taxi is taking you in the right direction. It helps to guard against taxi ripoffs. Prior to visiting Prague, I had read in various travel forums about the potential to be overcharged especially from the train station. I usually take a taxi when I arrive, especially at night. I used my iPhone to look up the typical cost using the World Taximeter website. By having data available, I was able to keep more of my Koruna as I could debate the cost of said trip. My driver went out of the way from the train station to the hotel so I knew he was overcharging me thanks to Google maps and world taximeter. He didn’t contest told and charged me less than what he initially asked for.
  • To use a Translate app such as iTranslate or Google translate. It helps me to say what I need to.

 

Most smartphone users know the high costs of data and roaming while travelling. So what do you do to keep costs to an affordable amount? If you have an unlocked phone you can purchase a local SIM card and prepaid data.

Purchasing an SIM card & prepaid data in South Africa: 

Johannesburg’s OR Tambo airport: There are several wireless provider shops near the international arrivals area. I went with Vodacom. It was easy to get set up and it was about $30-35 CAD for 1gb data, 20 minutes of calls to South Africa and texting.

Cape Town airport: There are several wireless provider shops after arrival in the Cape Town airport as well.

If you should need to top up, you can do so at any Vodacom shop or at stores like Pick n pay where you purchase of voucher for a certain amount and follow the prompts on your phone to credit your SIM card/phone number with the codes from the voucher. It’s simple and it’s in English.

Purchasing an SIM card & prepaid data in Senegal, West Africa: 

In Dakar and many towns outside of Dakar there are Orange stores as well as resellers everywhere. You can barely go a few blocks without seeing an Orange sign. You can even find their prepaid cards while stuck in traffic from the vendors
that come to your window.

To purchase data service in Senegal, follow these steps.

  1. Purchase a microSIM card. If none are available, purchase a regular sized one and have it cut or cut it yourself. 
  2. Purchase either 10,000 (1-week internet) or 25,000 CFA (1 month internet) at any reseller. You will get a scratch card with the pertinent information. 
  3. Important: Visit www.passorange.sn to activate the prepaid card and choose which service you’d like.
  1. Open up your browser and you should see that you’re connected.

 

Orange prepaid cards
Orange prepaid cards in Dakar, Senegal

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Activating your Orange prepaid data card
Activating your Orange prepaid data card

 

OrangeSenegalPrepaid3

 

If your phone is locked:

A locked phone means that you cannot change your SIM card from that of your usual wireless provider. You have to either “roam” (costly), rent (if available), buy something local or wait for a wifi connection. You can read that post here.

A Regional SIM card and staying connected in Europe:

In March 2012, I travelled solo to 8 cities in 6 countries in Europe and chose IPhoneTrip for convenience as they provide data plans for the world, a region or one country. I chose coverage for Europe so I could travel seamlessly from one country to the next rather than getting a local SIM card because I was only in some places 24-48 hours. I didn’t want to have interrupted service and I also didn’t want to spend my time having to find an SIM card on arrival. The service providers automatically switched as I entered a new country and I barely noticed.

iPhoneTrip sends you an SIM card as well as a backup SIM card in case there is something wrong with the first one. Rental is for a minimum of 7 days. At the time of rental, it was $11.99 USD per day for unlimited data. I only needed data as I use apps such as Vonage and Skype to make phone calls and iMessage and What’s App or Facebook messenger. My phone also worked as a wifi hotspot (tethering) so I could share my data with up to 5 devices if I wanted to. Fellow passengers on the tour bus to Budapest from Vienna became my best friends 😉

 

Prepaid SIM cards and Data Plans Around The World:

Here’s a great site that Susan of Vibrant Travels tweeted to me. It lists Prepaid SIM cards with data by country. http://prepaidwithdata.wikia.com/wiki/Prepaid_SIM_with_data

I checked Senegal and it’s not up to date, but I added a comment with some information. I also checked South Africa and it seemed pretty  up to date. So please do further research before you travel before relying solely on the information presented.

There is definitely something to be said for wandering about and getting “lost” and disconnecting, but sometimes it is not okay to do so. For those of us that need or want to stay connected, I hope these tips will help you.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why This Mother and Wife Travels Solo

If you knew me you would know that I absolutely love my husband, sons, friends and family. If you knew me you would know that connections are important to me. So why does this mother of 2 and wife leave behind my family to travel solo?

WHY THIS MOTHER AND WIFE TRAVELS SOLO 

  • I travel solo because sometimes there are places I want to go that others don’t.
  • I travel solo because it is such a feeling of accomplishment. I research the places I want to see. I choose the accommodations, the activities, my transportation and my meals. I go from one end of the city to the other, from one city to the next and from one country to another.
  • I travel solo because I get to meet like-minded individuals from all over the world who are also travelling. It is amazing to learn of where they have just come from and where they are going next. It makes the world feel smaller and more connected.
  • I travel solo because it gives you space. Space to reflect, breathe and appreciate.
  • I travel solo because there are places all over the world that I want to experience for myself.
  • I travel solo because there are people all over the world that I have yet to meet.
  • I travel solo because it gives you time for yourself and to come back home more renewed than ever. Often when you travel with others, it’s a series of compromises. Sometimes I just want to take a while longer while photographing something or to really be present.
  • I travel solo to take care of myself. Some people shop, I travel. Travelling is so much a part of me that when I don’t travel I am itching to get back out there. It is much more than just a destination, it is all the experiences that come with it. It is living life.

Solo travel gives you as much or as little time as you want, to see, to listen, to touch, to smell and to taste. It’s only up to you to decide how much. All your senses truly come alive.

SOLO TRAVEL QUOTES

The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready. — Henry David Thoreau

Solo travel not only pushes you out of your comfort zone. It also pushes you out of the zone of other’s expectations. – Suzy Strutner

Loving life is easy when you are abroad. Where no one knows you and you hold your life in your hands all alone, you are more master of yourself than at any other time – Hannah Arendt

Traveling alone doesn’t mean living lonely.  It is when you travel alone you are most open to others. –  Salil Jha

LONE TRAVELLER EXPERIENCES 

  • Sometimes I just want to sit a while longer with my vin chaud (mulled wine) and people watch at the café in Paris.
Vin Chaud in Montmartre district in Paris, France
sipping vin chaud and people watching in Montmartre – Paris, France
  • Sometimes I want to enjoy the views a little longer.
Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale castle in Bavaria
Neuschwanstein, the fairytale castle in Bavaria
  • Sometimes I want to take more time to photograph what I see or wait for a shot I envision while listening to the calls of the wild in the Kruger National Park.

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  • Sometimes I want to enjoy the culture of the city I am visiting and go to a ballet in Vienna or opera in Prague at the historic theatres.
Vienna Opera House
Vienna Opera House
Estates Theatre in Prague
Estates Theatre in Prague

Yes, you are physically alone when you travel solo and sometimes I feel lonely for a spell, especially missing my family, but I never feel truly alone. As a solo traveller, it is easy to meet people, mostly without even trying. I feel that the connections you make with yourself, the people of the world and nature can only be genuinely experienced while travelling solo.

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have had an opportunity to travel to and spend time in a village in the Eastern Cape to witness a Sangoma (traditional healer) graduation ceremony in South Africa.

An amaXhosa elder in the Eastern Cape, South Africa
An amaXhosa elder in the Eastern Cape, South Africa

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have taken Djembe (African drum) lessons with a Master djembefola at a neighbourhood cultural centre in Dakar, Senegal and be invited to watch his group practice for a performance after. I was the only foreigner amongst 30 drummers, dancers and local children. We also chatted about life over mint tea after the lesson.

djembe lessons in Dakar, Senegal, solo traveller experiences
still photo of me drumming in Senegal (from a video).
Watching a local Djembe group practice in Senegal, solo traveller experiences
watching a local Djembe & Dance group practice in Senegal

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have been invited to sing Christmas carols with 5000 locals against the backdrop of Table Mountain under starry skies and the shimmering lights of Cape Town in the background.

Carols by Candlelight - Cape Town, South Africa
Carols by Candlelight – Cape Town, South Africa

THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAVELLING SOLO AS A MOTHER

One of the biggest reasons I travel solo as a mother is for my boys. I want to show them that I am not just a mother, but that I am a woman that has dreams and that dreams do come true.

I want them to know what living life to the fullest is all about. They can’t always come with me, but with technology, I can share my travels in real time (FaceTime or photos) or when I get home.

I want them to learn that there is more out there than just our neighbourhood or country and that the world is not a big bad scary place as some make it out to be.

I want to inspire them to find things they love, to follow their hearts and go after their dreams.

Lastly, and perhaps most importantly as I am raising men, I want to raise them to respect, encourage and support women in their dreams. The best way to do this is by example and what better way to learn what it takes to be a man than witness their father support my dreams and travels around the world.

I am grateful for my dear husband, but I know that is not the reality for many. I hope for a near future where “let” and “allow” are replaced with “encourage” and “support” when it comes to mothers, wives, girlfriends and daughters in following their dreams of travels around the world.

All these reasons are why this mother and wife travels solo.

SOLO TRAVEL RESOURCES

BreatheDreamGo – http://breathedreamgo.com/2013/02/ode-to-the-lady-traveller-wegosolo/

Mariellen Ward has travelled solo to India for a total of 17 months of the last 7 years. Find out about why she started the WeGoSolo movement. Mariellen is a great resource for solo travel in India. As well, you will find countless posts, tips and resources by other woman solo travellers.

Journeywoman – http://www.journeywoman.com/

Evelyn Hannon of Journeywoman has been travelling solo for more than 30 years and has inspired women from around the world to do the same. Her site is a fantastic resource for woman travellers.

Solo Traveler – http://solotravelerblog.com

Janice Waugh began travelling solo after a loss and hasn’t looked back. Her site is another great resource for solo travellers.

Chapman’s Peak Drive, South Africa

Chapman’s Peak Drive is a 9km route between Noordhoek and Hout Bay in South Africa, about 15 km from Cape Town. There are 114 curves along this stretch of the Atlantic coast on the south-western tip of Africa. There are several stops along the way where you can pause and enjoy the scenery.

I have been on a some stunning drives such as the Sea to Sky highway from Horseshoe Bay  (Vancouver
area) to Whistler in British Columbia, Canada and the Grand Pacific Drive from Sydney to Wollongong in Australia.  I have to say that Chapman’s Peak Drive was the most spectacular thus far.

This photo was taken in panorama mode on my iPhone 4s. Click the photo below for a larger view.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

Chapman's Peak Drive, South Africa
Chapman’s Peak Drive, South Africa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I Dreamed of Africa

My stomach began to flutter as I walked to the jeep. The feeling grew as I climbed into the open game drive vehicle for the first time. I was both excited and nervous going for a 3-hour drive in the Greater Kruger National Park. The times in front of the TV watching Wild Kingdom with my dad and Gran and the hours spent leafing through National Geographic magazines as a child came to mind at that moment.

Was this real?

I wondered what animals we’d see on our drive. Though I would be happy to see any animal that was allowed to roam free, I secretly wished for a giraffe sighting. Suddenly we came upon a lone giraffe walking gracefully in front of us; I was ecstatic. It was too far away to get a decent photo, and we were moving slowly behind it.

It turned left and disappeared into the bush. We caught up to where it was, but the thick bush separated us. We watched for a moment and continued driving. Unexpectedly our jeep turned left; I smiled as I knew our guide would get us closer. The giraffe was eating off to the side of the dirt road, but the area had a lot of trees and thick bush. You’d be surprised at how quickly giraffes and even a herd of elephants can hide in it.

The giraffe moved, and the bush gave way a little, but still, I waited.

I soon noticed that the sun was beginning to set and the scene unfolding before me. The beauty of the sky and the road in front would add to the photo I thought. The light was disappearing, but I continued to wait. I enjoyed watching the slow manner in which it ate and moved, but I wondered if I would lose my chance.

Before I travelled to South Africa, I envisioned scenes I wanted to capture. This view was one of them. I wondered if the giraffe would ever come out of the bush so I could see it silhouetted against the sky, just as I had imagined. Someone asked why I wasn’t taking any photos, as she knew that I was a photographer.

“I’m waiting for the giraffe to walk out in front of us so I can take a photo of it against the sun and sky.”

“Spoken like a true photographer”.

Little did she know that I had been waiting my whole life for this, what was another minute or two? The giraffe stopped eating and moved away from the bush. It appeared in front of us.

I dreamed of Africa, and I dreamed of being able to capture this very scene… a giraffe photographed against a sunset sky. Dreams do come true.

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Cage Diving with Great White Sharks, check!

I came face to face with JAWS (cue the music) and lived to tell. Jaws (the movie) scared the bejeezus out of me, but for some reason, I have been fascinated with sharks for as long as I can remember, especially the Great White Shark.

Over the years, I’ve watched many episodes about them during Shark Week. I knew there were Great White Sharks in South Africa, but until recently I did not know you could get up close to them.

After much research, I chose to go with Great White Shark Tours (GWST) in Gansbaai, South Africa. It’s about a 2 hour drive from Cape Town and well worth it. The transfer company picked me up at the hostel I stayed at, The Backpack, and on the way, we stopped in Hermanus for some stretching. I saw a southern right whale and it’s calf from the shore.

My shark diving experience was a dream come true. I wish I could have gotten more underwater video with my Go Pro Hero 2. At the same time, I was happy to be present and be in the moment. Though you are in the same water as the sharks and only mere feet away, I felt very safe inside the cage.

It was absolutely incredible to be so close to these white sharks and it was actually calming. I compare it to watching a tank of fish swimming by. They didn’t even seem like they cared about us at all. If it weren’t for the chum and the workers on the boat trying to attract them, they probably wouldn’t have even approached us at all.

One of my favourite moments was when I was on the deck near the rail, and we were splashed by a Great White. Another favourite moment was when a shark was right beside the cage. The shark could not get any closer except to be inside the cage. It was so close that I moved back as far as I could as I thought it’s fin was going to touch me, but it missed me by inches.

Here are 2 photos I got with my iPhone from the boat.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

Great White Shark
Great White Shark off Dyer Island, South Africa

 

Great White Shark
Great White Shark off Dyer Island aka Shark Alley, South Africa