Finding Ubuntu in Cape Town, South Africa

April 3, 2013

From spontaneous drumming with a young shopkeeper at the popular V&A waterfront arts and crafts building to hearing the personal path of an apprentice Sangoma in a local township to singing Christmas carols with 5000 locals against the backdrop of Table Mountain, it was the most incredible trip of my life. I went to the Cape for the great white sharks, the penguins and the scenery, but came home with moments that I will never forget.

INSPIRING COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS IN KHAYELITSHA

I found Uthando South Africa on Trip Advisor and contacted James (the director) about their trips to Khayelitsha. I wanted to visit a township in a responsible, respectable and non-intrusive manner. After learning that Uthando is a non-profit and fair trade certified tourism organization and that you visit community development projects, I was sure that I had booked the right tour for me.

EKHAYA EKASI ART & EDUCATION CENTRE

Our first stop was to eKhaya eKasi Art & Education Centre. We met Lulama, the managing director of the centre and were given a tour and history of the centre. We learned about the programs such as women’s skills development and had an opportunity to see some of the women create handmade crafts. I loved that the centre empowers women by teaching them arts and crafts so they may sell their products to provide for their families. At the end of our visit, we had the option to visit the on-site boutique where we were able to purchase the crafts that were made by the women and other artists in Khayelitsha. One of my favourite souvenirs and gifts for family and friends was the heart ornaments made of shweshwe fabric, a traditional South African fabric. It was an opportunity to buy local and make a direct contribution.

I was then able to personally give the donated items I brought from Canada. To be able to choose, purchase, pack, carry and pass them from my hands to Lulama’s was an incredible feeling. Visiting the centre with Uthando was a definite highlight of my trip to Cape Town. It was inspiring to see the great things that were happening at eKhaya eKasi.

shweshwe heart ornaments made by women at eKhaya eKasi Art & Education Centre in Khayelitsha, South Africa

The view from the rooftop of eKhaya eKasi

ABALIMI BEZEKHAYA

We then continued on to Abalimi Bezekhaya’s organic garden centre in Khayelitsha where we met Mama Nokwanda. We learned how the women learn how to grow, harvest, provide for themselves and sell their produce to organizations outside of the Townships. Great progress had been made in the area of organic produce especially considering the dune-sand conditions on which they grow the vegetables.

MamaNokwanda Khayelitsha, South Africa — Mama Nokwanda, Khayelitsha, South Africa

Organic gardens in Khayelitsha, South Africa — organic gardens in Khayelitsha, South Africa

THOKAZANI BROTHERS

Our final visit was to the Thokazani Brothers. They are a choir that originally started with a group of men, but has expanded to include male and female youth from the township. They sing traditional songs. In addition, the adult leaders provide counselling and friendship to the youth and the building houses a creche (daycare). This group is sponsored by Uthando South Africa and was getting ready for a very important performance at Kirstenbosch Gardens for the 20th anniversary of Carols by Candlelight that was only 3 days away. We were treated to a beautiful performance by the youth of Khayelitsha. I had no idea what was being sung as it was in isiXhosa, but music has a way of expressing itself universally and I found it moving.

Thokazani Brothers, Khayelitsha, South Africa

My visit to each of the community development projects in Khayelitsha left me feeling inspired and moved. It was amazing to see the work being done by community members and leaders, a real grassroots endeavour. Each leader of the projects works hard to pass on skills and to uplift and empower their communities and they do so with such passion and commitment. Every tour booked with Uthando contributes to the projects visited.

GETTING IN THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT WITH NEW FRIENDS

A few days after my tour with Uthando, James invited me to attend Carols by Candlelight at Kirstenbosch Gardens with him and a few of his friends. The Thokazani group that I heard sing in Khayelitsha was the opening act. It was a thrill to not only watch them perform but to see the pride on their mother’s faces as they watched the group on stage.

The Christmas carol sing-a-long began around 8 pm in the shadow of Table Mountain, under starry skies and with the shimmering lights of Cape Town in the background. It was a different experience for me to not only be singing Christmas carols in the middle of summer (rather than in winter like at home in Toronto, Canada) but to do so with 5000 Capetonians. It was a great night and a perfect way to end my time in Cape Town.

Carols by Candlelight - Cape Town, South Africa — Carols by Candlelight, Cape Town, South Africa

SPONTANEOUS DRUMMING AT THE V&A MARKET

While wandering around the V&A Waterfront, I happened upon a djembe stall. I stopped to check out the djembes (African drum) after having lessons in Senegal the week prior. The young man who worked the shop insisted on hearing me play the djembe even though he knew I had only 2 lessons. He made me feel comfortable to play in such a public place and the next thing I knew, we were jamming. He showed me some beats on the drum and we played together for almost an hour, people even stopped to watch. Though we came from two completely different backgrounds, we connected in that experience and our mutual love of the African drum. He even suggested that I record him playing so I can practice at home.

THE SPIRIT OF UBUNTU

During my time at eKhaya eKasi, I connected with Lulama, the Managing Director or the Centre. For about 20-30 minutes on the rooftop, we discussed the challenges of running eKhaya eKasi, ways I might be able to assist and her journey to become a Sangoma (traditional healer). A moment I’ve remembered to this day (now 6 years later).

Participating in Cape Town Carols was another highlight and I enjoyed my time with the 4 people I met and spent that evening with. I was given a ticket to the event, welcomed by the group of friends, shared in their food and drink, sang and laughed with them and felt as if I had known them for a long time.

I had never encountered such openness and warmth as I did in Cape Town. I am grateful for those moments and the people I met. I know that without those experiences my time in Cape Town would only have been a series of proud accomplishments especially as a solo traveller rather than a journey of my heart. The moments inspired me to continue to live a life with an open heart. That time will forever stay with me.

I learned of the term Ubuntu, a beautiful word in the isiXhosa and isiZulu languages that in summary means “I am what I am because of who we all are.” Ubuntu speaks of the interconnectedness of all people. It is openness, caring, respect, love, community, humanity, compassion and sharing to name a few adjectives that describe the essence of the word.

These experiences in Cape Town taught me that travel is more than the seeing of the sights, it is the sharing of experiences and it is about the connections we make.

Why This Mother and Wife Travels Solo

February 24, 2013

If you knew me you would know that I absolutely love my husband, sons, friends and family. If you knew me you would know that connections are important to me. So why does this mother of 2 and wife leave behind my family to travel solo?

WHY THIS MOTHER AND WIFE TRAVELS SOLO

I travel solo because sometimes there are places I want to go that others don’t.
I travel solo because it is such a feeling of accomplishment. I research the places I want to see. I choose the accommodations, the activities, my transportation and my meals. I go from one end of the city to the other, from one city to the next and from one country to another.
I travel solo because I get to meet like-minded individuals from all over the world who are also travelling. It is amazing to learn of where they have just come from and where they are going next. It makes the world feel smaller and more connected.
I travel solo because it gives you space. Space to reflect, breathe and appreciate.
I travel solo because there are places all over the world that I want to experience for myself.
I travel solo because there are people all over the world that I have yet to meet.
I travel solo because it gives you time for yourself and to come back home more renewed than ever. Often when you travel with others, it’s a series of compromises. Sometimes I just want to take a while longer while photographing something or to really be present.
I travel solo to take care of myself. Some people shop, I travel. Travelling is so much a part of me that when I don’t travel I am itching to get back out there. It is much more than just a destination, it is all the experiences that come with it. It is living life.

Solo travel gives you as much or as little time as you want, to see, to listen, to touch, to smell and to taste. It’s only up to you to decide how much. All your senses truly come alive.

SOLO TRAVEL QUOTES

The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready. — Henry David Thoreau

Solo travel not only pushes you out of your comfort zone. It also pushes you out of the zone of other’s expectations. – Suzy Strutner

Loving life is easy when you are abroad. Where no one knows you and you hold your life in your hands all alone, you are more master of yourself than at any other time – Hannah Arendt

Traveling alone doesn’t mean living lonely. It is when you travel alone you are most open to others. – Salil Jha

LONE TRAVELLER EXPERIENCES

Sometimes I just want to sit a while longer with my vin chaud (mulled wine) and people watch at the café in Paris.

Vin Chaud in Montmartre district in Paris, France — sipping vin chaud and people watching in Montmartre – Paris, France

Sometimes I want to enjoy the views a little longer.

Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale castle in Bavaria — Neuschwanstein, the fairytale castle in Bavaria

Sometimes I want to take more time to photograph what I see or wait for a shot I envision while listening to the calls of the wild in the Kruger National Park.

Sometimes I want to enjoy the culture of the city I am visiting and go to a ballet in Vienna or opera in Prague at the historic theatres.

Yes, you are physically alone when you travel solo and sometimes I feel lonely for a spell, especially missing my family, but I never feel truly alone. As a solo traveller, it is easy to meet people, mostly without even trying. I feel that the connections you make with yourself, the people of the world and nature can only be genuinely experienced while travelling solo.

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have had an opportunity to travel to and spend time in a village in the Eastern Cape to witness a Sangoma (traditional healer) graduation ceremony in South Africa.

An amaXhosa elder in the Eastern Cape, South Africa

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have taken Djembe (African drum) lessons with a Master djembefola at a neighbourhood cultural centre in Dakar, Senegal and be invited to watch his group practice for a performance after. I was the only foreigner amongst 30 drummers, dancers and local children. We also chatted about life over mint tea after the lesson.

djembe lessons in Dakar, Senegal, solo traveller experiences — still photo of me drumming in Senegal (from a video).

Watching a local Djembe group practice in Senegal, solo traveller experiences — watching a local Djembe & Dance group practice in Senegal

If I didn’t travel solo I wouldn’t have been invited to sing Christmas carols with 5000 locals against the backdrop of Table Mountain under starry skies and the shimmering lights of Cape Town in the background.

THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAVELLING SOLO AS A MOTHER

One of the biggest reasons I travel solo as a mother is for my boys. I want to show them that I am not just a mother, but that I am a woman that has dreams and that dreams do come true.

I want them to know what living life to the fullest is all about. They can’t always come with me, but with technology, I can share my travels in real time (FaceTime or photos) or when I get home.

I want them to learn that there is more out there than just our neighbourhood or country and that the world is not a big bad scary place as some make it out to be.

I want to inspire them to find things they love, to follow their hearts and go after their dreams.

Lastly, and perhaps most importantly as I am raising men, I want to raise them to respect, encourage and support women in their dreams. The best way to do this is by example and what better way to learn what it takes to be a man than witness their father support my dreams and travels around the world.

I am grateful for my dear husband, but I know that is not the reality for many. I hope for a near future where “let” and “allow” are replaced with “encourage” and “support” when it comes to mothers, wives, girlfriends and daughters in following their dreams of travels around the world.

All these reasons are why this mother and wife travels solo.

SOLO TRAVEL RESOURCES

BreatheDreamGo – http://breathedreamgo.com/2013/02/ode-to-the-lady-traveller-wegosolo/

Mariellen Ward has travelled solo to India for a total of 17 months of the last 7 years. Find out about why she started the WeGoSolo movement. Mariellen is a great resource for solo travel in India. As well, you will find countless posts, tips and resources by other woman solo travellers.

Journeywoman – http://www.journeywoman.com/

Evelyn Hannon of Journeywoman has been travelling solo for more than 30 years and has inspired women from around the world to do the same. Her site is a fantastic resource for woman travellers.

Solo Traveler – http://solotravelerblog.com

Janice Waugh began travelling solo after a loss and hasn’t looked back. Her site is another great resource for solo travellers.

Chapman’s Peak Drive, South Africa

February 22, 2013

Chapman’s Peak Drive is a 9km route between Noordhoek and Hout Bay in South Africa, about 15 km from Cape Town. There are 114 curves along this stretch of the Atlantic coast on the south-western tip of Africa. There are several stops along the way where you can pause and enjoy the scenery.

I have been on a some stunning drives such as the Sea to Sky highway from Horseshoe Bay (Vancouver
area) to Whistler in British Columbia, Canada and the Grand Pacific Drive from Sydney to Wollongong in Australia. I have to say that Chapman’s Peak Drive was the most spectacular thus far.

This photo was taken in panorama mode on my iPhone 4s. Click the photo below for a larger view.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

Chapman's Peak Drive, South Africa — Chapman’s Peak Drive, South Africa

Cage Diving with Great White Sharks, check!

January 7, 2013

I came face to face with JAWS (cue the music) and lived to tell. Jaws (the movie) scared the bejeezus out of me, but for some reason, I have been fascinated with sharks for as long as I can remember, especially the Great White Shark.

Over the years, I’ve watched many episodes about them during Shark Week. I knew there were Great White Sharks in South Africa, but until recently I did not know you could get up close to them.

After much research, I chose to go with Great White Shark Tours (GWST) in Gansbaai, South Africa. It’s about a 2 hour drive from Cape Town and well worth it. The transfer company picked me up at the hostel I stayed at, The Backpack, and on the way, we stopped in Hermanus for some stretching. I saw a southern right whale and it’s calf from the shore.

My shark diving experience was a dream come true. I wish I could have gotten more underwater video with my Go Pro Hero 2. At the same time, I was happy to be present and be in the moment. Though you are in the same water as the sharks and only mere feet away, I felt very safe inside the cage.

It was absolutely incredible to be so close to these white sharks and it was actually calming. I compare it to watching a tank of fish swimming by. They didn’t even seem like they cared about us at all. If it weren’t for the chum and the workers on the boat trying to attract them, they probably wouldn’t have even approached us at all.

One of my favourite moments was when I was on the deck near the rail, and we were splashed by a Great White. Another favourite moment was when a shark was right beside the cage. The shark could not get any closer except to be inside the cage. It was so close that I moved back as far as I could as I thought it’s fin was going to touch me, but it missed me by inches.

Here are 2 photos I got with my iPhone from the boat.

Until next time,

Andrea… and my wandering iPhone

Great White Shark off Dyer Island, South Africa

Africa, South Africa, Travel, travel tips, Travel With Purpose

Socially Responsible in South Africa

November 20, 2012

I am grateful for the opportunity to go to South Africa and want to give back to the communities that I will be visiting. Short of volunteering trips which generally require several weeks to a year and can potentially be more about exploitation rather than helping (read here about the potential problems with some volunteering trips), how can people that want to help more directly, do so?

In my research, I came across three organizations. I learned about a program called Pack for a Purpose through The Backpack. The idea is to use space in your suitcase or your extra baggage allowance to pack much-needed items. To figure out what is needed, you look up a destination, choose lodging that participates and view the items that are needed. The information is regularly updated. What a great idea, right?!

For my trip to Africa (Senegal & South Africa), I am allowed two suitcases of up to 50 pounds each. I only need one small suitcase, so I have filled another one for donation. With the Pack for a Purpose organization, you bring the items to the lodging, and they will make sure it gets to the projects they support.

The hostel I’m staying at in Cape Town is The Backpack. I chose them because of their initiatives that support people and communities. They are more than a great hostel in an excellent location; their responsible tourism efforts are what drew me to them. It is important for me to support small businesses that affect people more directly, where I can. Check them out if you plan to visit Cape Town.

donations — donated items for Pack for a Purpose and Uthando South Africa

The other organization I learned of is Uthando South Africa. I couldn’t go to Cape Town and ignore the communities outside of the tourist areas. I’ve known about Apartheid over the years. Admittedly, I struggled with the idea of visiting a township as I didn’t want it to be voyeuristic or intrusive. I came across many tours, but they didn’t feel right to me. Uthando is different as you visit community projects that are making a difference to their communities.

From the Uthando website: “Uthando offers tailor made, unique and authentic philanthropic cultural tours, visiting the projects that receive funding and other forms of assistance from Uthando and its benefactors. People attending on the field trip have an insight into the remarkable stories that make life in South Africa so interesting, dynamic and very importantly, inspiring. The tours are interactive, meeting the people at the projects, learning about their work and way of life, firsthand. By booking a tour with Uthando, clients are also automatically assisting the projects on a financial level.”

In addition to helping financially by going on a tour, I will also bring items that are needed in the donated suitcase. Finding a way to help not only locally, but globally is important to me, especially since having children.

I want to teach my boys about the world and the people of the world. I want to raise them to be socially responsible men. I want them to learn about giving and helping where they can, but not just by telling them, by showing them, and involving them. I strive to find ways to teach them about this in a meaningful way. Thanks to the Backpack, Pack for a Purpose and Uthando South Africa, I will be able to do so in a more tangible way.

The Backpack – www.backpackers.co.za
Pack For a Purpose – www.packforapurpose.org/
Uthando South Africa – www.uthando.org

Read More about Cape Town & South Africa :

Update February 2020:

Since this post almost 8 years ago, I’ve been to Cape Town 8 times and South Africa 10 times. My most recent trip was in October/November 2019. I still feel this way about these great organizations.

cape town