The bottom row of 3 photos is my home in the Baobab tree and view from the room.
It was early morning and still dark when I stepped off an overnight flight from Washington, DC onto the tarmac of the small Dakar airport. The airplane had stopped for an hour to refuel and drop off and pick up passengers before continuing to Johannesburg, South Africa. I disembarked to visit a friend and her family for the next six days, and though I was tired, I couldn’t wait to explore Senegal.
A few hours after arriving we were on our way to Palmarin and the Sine Saloum Delta in rural Senegal. A well-paved highway takes you out of the city and further onto a two-way road through towns and villages. As the sight of Dakar faded in the distance, I looked
ahead to the open road and couldn’t believe I was in Africa.
Scenes of meat and fruit stands by the roadside, unfinished buildings and crumbling sidewalks, women in colorful attire, roaming goats, salt flats and baobab trees, donkey carts and horse carts and women carrying water or pounding maize played out in front of me.
After Joal, we found ourselves on the worst road I’ve ever traveled. I thought we were going to lose a tire to the large potholes that filled the road. As we came out on the other side of that bumpy red earthy road with tires intact, I smiled.
I was on an adventure of a lifetime and on my way to spend my first night ever on the continent of Africa in a majestic Baobab tree at Collines de Niassam Lodge.
As the daughter of a Myanmar born father, I wanted my first trip to Myanmar to be a memorable and meaningful experience. I learned about Thadingyut, the festival of lights and the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda festivals and I just knew they would be two Myanmar festivals worth travelling to Myanmar for.
PHAUNG DAW OO PAGODA FESTIVAL – INLE LAKE, MYANMAR
The excitement was palpable as we met up with a procession of 20 long boats each with 100 rowers for the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival in Inle Lake, Myanmar.
This religious festival takes place around the villages of Inle Lake for 18 days leading up to the full moon in October and the lighting festival known as Thadingyut.
Four holy images of Buddha from the highly revered Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda travel on the Royal Karaweik (mythological bird) barge and are towed by rowers from village to village, spending a night or two in each village’s monastery. In October 2015, I had the opportunity to witness this unique festival.
After travelling by longtail boat for an hour from the jetty in Nyaung Shwe, we came upon several other teak wood boats waiting along the banks, each filled with Buddhist devotees with gifts of flowers and food for Buddha. It was 7:30 am, and we had made it to a smaller part of the lake. The people in the homes that lined the water’s edge watched from their windows, sat on the stairs that led to the water or on their small docks. They also had food and gifts, and many dressed in their best longyis.
Just after we arrived at the first boat with 100 male, Intha rowers appeared. Each boat had music, and the men wore the same colour of traditional Shan clothing. They rowed with their leg wrapped around their oar sometimes switching to row with their hands. Some stood on the upper part of the boat and danced.
It was a festive celebration but the people waiting for the barge appeared solemn. They bowed as the Royal Golden Karaweik passed.
Many boats joined the procession and followed as it made its way to the nearest monastery. We did too and soon found ourselves in the heart of it all, sandwiched between boats and at times we bumped.
We followed a few boats to a narrow channel just off the main traversing part of Inle Lake to watch as the procession passed through the small village. It was unlike anything I had ever experienced before and a wonderful way to bring in Thadingyut.
The lead boat in the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival procession on Inle Lake, October 2015
A boat of 100 rowers at the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival parade on Inle Lake, October 2015Intha leg rowers at the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival in Inle Lake, MyanmarThe Karaweik barge carrying four images of Buddha during the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival in Inle Lake, MyanmarRoyal Karaweik bargeJoining the procession at the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival in Inle Lake, Myanmar
THADINGYUT – INLE LAKE, MYANMAR
Thadingyut, the Festival of Lights is celebrated the day before, after and on the full moon day, usually in October, in Myanmar. It is in the seventh month of the Myanmar calendar, and the end of the Buddhist Lent. Do check for the exact dates if you plan to attend.
Young people pay respect to their parents and older relatives. My father, grandparents, great and great great grandparents are from Myanmar. For three years I had planned to visit Myanmar to coincide with Thadingyut as a way to honour my Burmese relatives and ancestors.
In October 2015, I finally got to visit the country for the first time with my dad and cousins. We celebrated Thadingyut in Naung Shwe (Inle Lake).
Homes, pagodas, monasteries and open market shops were lit with candles, and a few paper lanterns dotted the sky. There was a constant sound of fireworks and firecrackers going off. My father bought some as well and asked the shop owner to light them. He also popped a few off as he remembered doing as a teenager in Yangon.
I watched as two young men lit candles to put into the wall surrounding the Yadanar Manaung Pagoda and asked to take their photo. They agreed and gave me a candle to light too.
More:
Watch my view of Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival from inside a longtail boat
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THADINGYUT IN YANGON
A street fair takes place in downtown Yangon. I’ve seen photos of the event from relatives there. It seems like it’s a good time to be in the city. Unfortunately, it was raining when we arrived late from Inle Lake on the last night of the festival
Arriving back at Naledi Game Lodge in South Africa for my third time, I had only one wish — to be surrounded by elephants and have an memorable and of course ethical elephant encounter. I was yearning to have more time with my favourite animal, observing it in its natural habitat.
I had already gone on the morning game drive and decided to spend 3 hours at a hide. I was finishing breakfast when I noticed an elephant on the television screen mounted on the wall. I soon realized that it was the webcam feed from the hide I was planning to visit.
The bull elephant was still at the waterhole when we arrived. After an okay from Sipho, a tracker at Naledi, I quickly moved from the game drive vehicle, up the stairs to the hide. The elephant was on the other side of the hide, off-camera.
All of a sudden, he emitted a rumbling sound. Sipho explained that he was communicating. Sure enough, three more male elephants came by for a drink. One by one they arrived at the waterhole and went to the far side of the waterhole.
Then an elephant that Sipho called “Flopsy” (because of his floppy right ear) was the last of the five elephants to appear. He passed by in front of the hide and nodded his head as if to say hello and joined the others for a drink. They hung around for about 45 minutes. I couldn’t believe all the time I had with them, alone, as Sipho had left just after Flopsy arrived.
The next day while on a game drive, Mike (guide) heard breaking branches and followed the sound into the bush. We came upon 12-13 male elephants. I immediately thought some of the elephants were from the day before.
While we were watching the elephants in front of us, we suddenly heard branches breaking behind us. After a few minutes, an elephant came out from behind the tree and continued to eat nearby. It was Flopsy.
He was so close to the vehicle that I switched to my iPhone to get a few shots and record video. I giggled because I couldn’t believe how close he was and that I had to use my iPhone.
The Hide at Naledi Game Lodge.Sipho, a tracker at Naledi Game Lodge, South Africa after dropping me off at the hide.
The bull elephant that was at the hide when I arrived
The three elephants that arrived after the bull elephant made a rumbling sound.
Three wild African elephants at a waterhole, including “Flopsy”. My view from the hide above the waterhole.
My guide Mike taking a photo of the elephants with his smartphone
Then, this happened.
I was alone in the back of the game drive vehicle that day, and our vehicle had the sighting to ourselves. The only way to describe this 2-day experience is, magical.
I have always believed that elephants were magical. Now I know it’s true. Thanks to the expert guiding of Mike and the fantastic tracking of Sipho, this experience will long live in my heart. I was calm and felt safe.
More –
We left the elephant sighting and found that one of the males had gone for a walk. Another Naledi Game Lodge vehicle is pictured.
Naledi Game Lodges – a luxury, family-friendly and relatively affordable lodge in the Greater Kruger area.
Africam – web cameras that stream 24 hours a day, three are located at Naledi Game Lodge.
Safari Live– For live streaming game drives from South Africa, check out Wild Earth’s Safari Live. It’s as if you’re in the back of the vehicle on a 3-hour drive, searching for wildlife. The drives are twice a day.
OVER THE THREE-DAY Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, Canada, I witnessed the great pride of elders as they watched their children and grandchildren dance, drum and sing, celebrating and preserving their rich culture.
This carving stands on a pole at Songhees Point. It depicts the importance of children and the spirit of this sacred site to the Songhees First Nation. This area is also known as Pallatsis, meaning “place of the cradle” in the Lekwungen language. When children were able to walk on their own, parents put their cradle along the waterfront to ensure them a long life. This was the launch site of 3 canoes that participated in the ‘welcoming of canoes’ ceremony and traditional protocol of approaching a First Nations territory and asking to come ashore. A young boy is seen walking behind this pole to join his father (not pictured) before they departed in the canoes for the ceremony and to open the 2015 Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, British Columbia.
We were a mix of Indigenous people, some in colourful regalia, and non-Indigenous people that included local mayors, business leaders, and myself. We paddled in sync to the shared traditional territory of the Songhees and Esquimalt Nations to ask for permission to come ashore, a time-honored protocol. It was a historic day, as this had never been done before in the history of Victoria.
Chief Ron Sam of Songhees First Nation welcomed us ashore and stated the significance of the canoe ceremony when he said:
“You know I think it’s important, the acknowledgment, when we’re all in a canoe, pulling in the same direction. You know, I think that’s what we want to achieve on a daily basis.”
George Taylor, emcee of the Aboriginal Cultural Festival and director of Le-La-La Dancers of Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation sings and drums as he leads a procession of 3 canoes across Victoria’s Inner Harbor in the canoe ceremony. Ten-year-old Matthew Everson seen beside George wearing a ceremonial blanket and mask participates in this historic ceremony.
Chief Ron Sam of Songhees First Nation looks on as Gary Sam, a dancer from the Songhees Nation greets the canoes, he then performed a paddle song to welcome us ashore.
A young drummer from the Esquimalt First Nation joins his grandfather (not pictured) on stage at the 2nd annual Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, British Columbia.
Lason Taylor performs as a young grizzly bear at the Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, British Columbia. Lason is a 3rd generation member of the Le-La-La Dancers First Nations dance company. The Le-La-La dancers are from the Kwakwaka’wakh First Nation in Northern Vancouver Island. They have been sharing their culture and traditions through song and dance under the direction of George Me’las Taylor locally and around the world for 27 years. The passing of stories from generation to generation is how their rich culture has survived and will continue to survive.
A drummer stands beside elder Ray Qwulshemut Peter, director of the Tzinquaw Dancers group from the Cowichan First Nation, as they sing and drum at the Aboriginal Cultural Festival. This group presented songs and dances that were taught to them by their elders. They shared a song that was sacred to them and asked that no one record or photograph the performance. Several elders that lead dance groups stepped aside and asked the younger generation to sing and drums their songs. George Taylor spoke of the importance of the “passing of the drumstick” and teaching children and youth so that their traditions, songs, dances and stories may be carried on.
A young boy drums as he performs with the Tzinquaw Dancers from the Cowichan First Nation at the 2nd annual Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, British Columbia. Children learn their traditional songs, dances and stories and participate in ceremonies and at festivals from a young age.
Amber Wells shares her story through a hoop dance. Amber’s father, Alex Wells is a 3-time world champion hoop dancer and has taught Amber the basics of this dance to which she has added her own elements.
Matthew Everson on stage at the 2nd annual Aboriginal Cultural Festival in Victoria, British Columbia. Matthew is a 2nd-generation dancer in the Le-La-La Dancers First Nation Dance Company.
Kelly Robinson of Nuu-chah-nulth and Nuxalk First Nations displays a raven mask that he carved from yellow cedar. Kelly shared that his favourite animal to carve is the raven as it the light bringer, it brings light to the world. Kelly comes from a family of carvers as his uncles and grandfathers also work with this art. This mask is used for dances or ceremonies such as the potlatch.
Young Michael Sheena of the Pauquachin First Nation shows off a drum he made from cut pieces of deer hide. He learned how to make rattles and drums from his grandfather, Virgil Bob. Virgil shared the month-long process of preparing a hide, such as putting the fur in a special solution and the scraping of fur. Michael comes from a family of artists as his grandfather’s sisters, Alva and Iona are weavers and jewellery designers. Michael was with his aunts and grandfather in the artist booth. I learned that Michael and Virgil also use elk and bear hide for their instruments.
Jason, Lason and George Me’las Taylor, 3 generations of the Le-La-La Dancers First Nations dance company. The Le-La-La dancers are from the Kwakwaka’wakh First Nation in Northern Vancouver Island.
It was an honour to be in one of 3 First Nations canoes during the historic Welcoming of Canoes ceremony. Watch a short 30-second video of my experience.
For authentic Indigenous cultural experiences, attractions and events in Canada, visit:
Lifeguard station at Cherry Beach in Toronto, Canada.
Cherry Beach in Toronto, Ontario is my go-to beach for it’s laid back atmosphere. It’s my favourite place to sit by the lake and take some time out. It is much less crowded
than the other Toronto beaches.
There are toilet facilities, a food truck and an off-leash dog park. You’ll often see kite boarders, kayakers, stand up paddle boarders and wind surfers. There are barbeque facilities as well, just bring the charcoal.
It was the last day of our 3-country intergenerational family trip and our final day in Milan. I love nature and any chance to be near an ocean, lake, river or any body of water; I take it. In this case, the body of water was Lake Como, and it was calling. After visiting Amsterdam, Dusseldorf and spending a day in Milan, I was yearning to get away from concrete and city chaos.
I didn’t have a plan, but I knew Lake Como was reasonably close. I chose Varenna because it was a 65-minute train ride to Varenna Esino station, picturesque and not as touristy (busy) as other destinations on Lake Como.
My two boys (10 and 6) and I headed to the Milan Central station which was one stop away on the Metro from our rental apartment in Piazza Della Repubblica. The Milan Metro has several lines which can be a little confusing but with my very limited Italian, hand gesturing and helpful Milanese, we were on our way.
We arrived at the station with time to spare. We did some window shopping on the lower levels then grabbed some pizza on level two where the platforms are. After lunch, we joined the other travellers in the waiting area near Gate A where we were to board our train.
My sons at Milano Centrale
It was an easy train ride and the last twenty minutes were spectacular as the lake and mountains came into view. We took a taxi to Piazza San Giorgio, the main square, as I didn’t know how far of a walk it would be. It turns out it’s a quick 4-5 minute taxi ride and a flat rate of ten euros to get there.
The first thing you notice upon arrival is the stone church and tower on your left, the Church of San Giorgio, consecrated in 1313. The bells chimed just after we arrived and again as we got back to the Piazza before departing Varenna.
Church of San Giorgio in Varenna, Italy
Piazza San Giorgia in Varenna, Italy.
The first glimpse of Lake Como beside Hotel Royal Victoria as you walk through the piazza.
We weren’t sure which way to go to get to the waterfront, but the lane sloped downward, so we followed it. As we walked away from the church, there was a red house straight ahead; the path continued right.
A house in Varenna, Italy
Then, a house with green doors and shutters next to a house with terra cotta/orange-ish coloured walls and a window with flower pots in front of us; a mailbox was on the left corner.
My six-year-old son in Varenna, Italy
My 10-year-old son in Varenna, Italy (snapchat image)
A narrow lane continued left and offered another glimpse of the water and mountains. We could either continue to walk down the continuous path or take the steep steps on the right which led down to the lake. We chose the longer way down so we could enjoy all the little details and colours along the way.
The gradual pathway down to Lake Como in Varenna, Italy
At the end of the cobblestone path, there was a restaurant on the right with a choice to go left or right; we went right. As we continued, there was a small outdoor patio with a view of the lake on the left and then another and another. There were restaurants and more seating across the pathway on the right. We passed the restaurants in search of a gelateria.
Just after we passed the restaurants there was a stone ‘beach’, children were laughing and playing in the lake, and anchored boats were in the harbour. There were benches with views of the lake and mountains with the Alps in the distance behind them. Shops, galleries and gelaterias were also to be found. There was a pier with a water taxi service which also offered tours around the lake. Signs pointed to the ferry boat that takes passengers to Bellagio.
Lake Como from the waterfront promenade in Varenna, Italy
A view back to the photo above and the stone beach in Varenna, Italy
After a while, we turned back to Gelateria Riva di Riva Duilio, one of the gelato shops we had passed. My youngest son is a big fan of gelato, my oldest son, not so much. We both had the mint gelato; it was so fresh, creamy and minty and we were in gelato heaven. We sat on the stone steps beside the gelateria which had seat cushions for its patrons to enjoy their gelato with a view. After our gelato, we continued walking back in the direction we originally came from and made our way to one of the waterfront restaurants, Bar Il Molo. The patio nearer to the lake was full, but we managed to snag the last table across the pathway.
Lakeside patio views from Bar Il Molo in Varenna, Italy.
We were enjoying our time in Varenna so we opted for one of the latest trains back to Milano Centrale, one that got us back to Milan just after 9:30 pm. We had a minor blip on our trip back as we ended up on a train going in the wrong direction. No big deal I thought, we’ll just get off at the next stop. Luckily it was only a few minutes away; we were about 6-7 minutes ahead of our schedule, and the right train was delayed for ten minutes.
Note: If you’re at Varenna Esino train station and are going to Milan, take the stairs to the lower level and go through a short tunnel under the tracks to get to the other side. ‘Getting lost made for an adventure and thanks to helpful people that pointed us in the right direction. There is some street art in the tunnel, mostly The Simpsons.
Street art in the tunnel at Varenna Esino station. (Snapchat image).
Waiting for the train to Milano Centrale at the Varenna Esino station in Italy
It was an uneventful ride back to Milan and a short trip back to our apartment. It was the perfect day trip with my two sons. They loved both Varenna and Milan, though I think it was the pizza and gelato that sealed the deal.
